Improving Profitability Through Soil Management – Black Isle

Posted on February 22, 2012 by SAC News And Events
Event Starts 11:00 AM, Fri 09 March 2012
Event Ends Fri 09 March 2012 (Time to be confirmed)

Location Balnakyle Farm, near Munlochy, Black Isle, IV8 8PF.

A demonstration of GPS soil mapping from David Ross & Euan Hart complemented by a “back to basics” approach to soil management from Bruce Ball.

  • GPS Soil Mapping
  • Targeted P, K & Lime Application
  • Tillage & Compaction
  • Soil Structure & Nutrient Availability

Start at Balnakyle Farm, 11.00 am.

Afternoon visit to Croftcrunnie Farm.

Further Information

Please call SAC Inverness on 01463 233 266 to book your place.

Lunch will be provided

Event Contact
Farm & Rural Business Services - Inverness
Drummondhill, Stratherrick Road, Inverness IV2 4JZ
01463 233266 Fax: 01463 236579

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Bee health: the treatment (or not) of diseases and parasites :: RE: Copper for protecting hives from varroa

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Paz
Author: Paz
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:22 pm (GMT 0)

I'm no chemist but copper in the correct dosage has long been used to treat parasites on marine and tropical fish. However, it is also extremely toxic / fatal, in very low concentrations, especially to marine fish. I'm sure fish aren't alone in being sensitive to toxic metals in their environment, so I remain sceptical I'm afraid.

Paz
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Beginners start here :: RE: Why is TBH better for bees?

Posted on February 22, 2012 by newwoman
Author: newwoman
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:49 pm (GMT 0)

Thankyou Barbara, your reply was very clear, helpful and much appreciated
Thanks again
Pat Laughing
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Happiness is a journey not a destination
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Three New Courses – Bee Craft Course Database

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Bee-Craft.com
Beekeeping for Livelihoods in developing countries Name of association: Bees for Development Course Title: Beekeeping for Livelihoods in developing countries Tutor(s) Name: Dr Nicola Bradbear [...]
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Bee health: the treatment (or not) of diseases and parasites :: RE: Copper for protecting hives from varroa

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Gareth
Author: Gareth
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:22 pm (GMT 0)

I may be wrong, but my first response is that this sounds suspiciously like the usual claims made by all purveyors of magic bullets bullets. Wink
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'Humanity is like a blind man who does not know where he is heading. He gropes around with the cane of scientific knowledge ....... Foolishness comes out looking smart'. Masanobu Fukuoka
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Beginners start here :: RE: Why is TBH better for bees?

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Barbara
Author: Barbara
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:15 pm (GMT 0)

Hi Pat

I thought that was the question I had answered regarding moving the split from the back of the original hive to a new hive...... obviously I didn't explain it very well Confused

It depends really how far you want to move the split. If it's more than just a few feet, there are a couple of options.....

If you wish to maintain the split as it is..... you need to put the new hive adjacent to the original with the entrance in the same position.... it's probably easier to do it with a bait hive or top bar nuc rather than a full hive because obviously you are going to want to move it further from the old hive once you've got them settled in their new home and moving a small nuc a few feet each day is easier than a whole hive! Try to keep the entrance facing in the same direction and roughly the same height to minimise disruption. Then just lift the bars into this transfer hive, being careful not to drop the queen. Close up their entrance in the original hive and scoop out as many bees as you can. The returning foragers will learn to use the entrance to the new hive because it's in more or less the right place and the nest scent from the comb inside will tell them it's home. Leave the empty end of the original hive open for the rest of the day so that any stragglers can get out and the nest scent can dissipate. Once there is no trace of their nest in the old hive they will ignore it and you can put the roof back on. Then it's just a question of a few feet a day till you get to the new hive site and transfer in the same way. Making sure that the top bars are aligned with the original hive may help prevent crosscombing (if they were building straight to start with). If you don't need your wheelbarrow for a few days the easiest way is to make a level platform across the top with wood. Sit the nuc or new hive on that and once you've transferred the comb, strap it down to stop it slipping and then just wheel it a few feet each day.

If it's only a matter of moving the split 5 or 6 feet to the new hive or you're not bothered about keeping the foragers with the split, you can do it in one go(original hive to transfer box(don't carry combs any distance without them being in a box to catch queen or breakage) to new hive). The foragers will most likely return to the original hive (where they will be accepted because they bring gifts!) instead of the new one. You just need to ensure the new hive has sufficient stores to last them till their new batch of foragers come through and start doing orientation flights from their new home. There will be more disruption using this direct method but it should settle down quite quickly, especially if you can disguise their original entrance (put your wheelie bin in front of it or something, so it looks completely different) and they have to go looking for a new entrance rather than bearding at the blocked entrance hole trying to work out a way in. It will depend if you have side entrances and/or end entrances as to how successful this will be. If the entrances for both colonies were on the same side the foragers will just start to use the main colony's entrance. If the main colony is an end entrance or the other way round, they may insist on bearding at their old entrance. You could then scoop them up in the evening and dump them at the entrance to the new hive. They should get the idea eventually!

Obviously if you are moving them further afield to an out apiary, then you need to transfer them to nuc or transfer box next to the hive as above. Give them a day or two to settle and then block them in overnight, make sure the follower boards are snug up to the combs, secure the bars and if you wish then turn the box in the direction of the bars through 180 degrees and transport them like that. Transporting them upside down can really only be done with a small colony with little stores as nectar will run out.

Hope that's a little clearer.

Regards

Barbara
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Bee health: the treatment (or not) of diseases and parasites :: RE: Copper for protecting hives from varroa

Posted on February 22, 2012 by imkeer
Author: imkeer
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:05 pm (GMT 0)

There surely is a difference! I have used colloidal silver on myself for several years in sometimes high dosage and it had no effect on the beneficial microorganisms in my body. So I just looked it up: "Research shows that the beneficial bacteria in our bodies contain a positive charge, therefore, the positively charged silver particles are not attracted to the positively charged good bacteria. This makes colloidal silver absolutely safe for humans, reptiles, plants and all multi-celled living matter."

http://thehealthfactory.com/colloidal-silver/

I don't know about the use of it in a bee hive or bee feed but I may try it when necessary.

Luc Pintens
Belgium
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LiveUniteCreate
PeopleInhabitNowTheEternalNaturalState

http://hapicultuur.be
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Beginners start here :: RE: Southern Hemisphere – Is it too late to install a nuc

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Barbara
Author: Barbara
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:59 am (GMT 0)

Hi

Sorry to see you didn't get a reply to your first post. I confess I did read it, but hoped someone with more local knowledge of conditions/climate would respond. Well done for biting the bullet and going for it!

Personally I would not have interspersed empty bars between the brood comb particularly approaching the autumn with only 4 frames in total.
I would have put them from front (nearest the entrance):-

honey, space, brood, brood, space, honey space space

They have a lot of building to do before the winter so definitely feed them, initially 1:1 syrup to help them build comb and then 2:1 syrup to store in it once it's built. Obviously keep track of their progress and add extra bars if they need them but if you can get them to 8 decent size combs they should be fine.

Good luck with them.

Best wishes

Barbara
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Beginners start here :: RE: Southern Hemisphere – Is it too late to install a nuc

Posted on February 22, 2012 by Tavascarow
Author: Tavascarow
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:08 am (GMT 0)

Give them as many bars as they want & keep feeding them.
I don't feed established colonies, but a late install will need it IMHO.
If there is a flow on they will leave the feed but they will probably guzzle it the rest of the time.
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Bee happy.
Member of Cornwall Natural Beekeepers
http://z7.invisionfree.com/Natural_Beekeeping/index.php?showforum=4
http://www.fotothing.com/Tavascarow
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Bee health: the treatment (or not) of diseases and parasites :: RE: Copper for protecting hives from varroa

Posted on February 22, 2012 by GürkanYeniçeri
Author: GürkanYeniçeri
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:05 am (GMT 0)

Quote:
What is the difference between this and feeding broad spectrum antibiotics? It would simply kill a wide range of the beneficial bacteria and, with silver, maybe other microbes too.


You are right, if the colloidal silver is strong enough as it is claimed, there wouldn't be any difference.
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